The intentional and bucolic designs of the American Arts and Crafts movement served as the starting point for Derek Lam 10 Crosby’s fall 2023 collection. “Their values of utility, simplicity, and form are very much in line with what we do,” Shawn Reddy, vice president of design, said. Touches of handicraft define the fall season: a braided waistband; a shearling vest with cutout-embroidery; moody, rich floral prints inspired by William Morris wallpapers. These give the clothes a touch of romance, though they are primarily functional.
That’s by design. As Reddy says, “maintaining the respect of being a reliable source for certain things has been so important for the whole pandemic.” He’s referring to trousers and denim, which he says the Derek Lam customer comes to the brand for time and again. The jeans—in a range of styles from kick flares to calf-length skirts—have become central to the brand.
Standouts include a plaid toggle cape (a surprise favorite of the Derek Lam customer), a mid-wash denim skirt suit, and a mauve pantsuit. The tailoring is sharp and has flashes of Lam’s penchant for the 1970s (see the burgundy velvet style). It may be an obvious point, but one that often gets lost in the craze of fashion week: these clothes are meant to be worn, over and over again.