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While pre-fall was inspired by a single cinematic muse, Huishan Zhang shifted his attention to the overarching mood of Alfred Hitchcock’s ‘femme fatale’ for fall. “I wanted to discover my own way of bringing the Hitchcockian woman into the 21st century,” the designer said at a preview. “It’s about creating a fantasy character who’s as dangerously seductive as she is confident in her own self.”

From crepe cocktail dresses in aubergine and maroon, to outerwear embellished with the brand's signature ostrich feathers, the designer presented a well-balanced selection of elegant pieces. A couple of couture-level dresses in black and pistachio tulle stood out. “I’m very proud of these dresses,” he asserted. “We hand-embroidered everything in our atelier for over a week—I love that they look and feel light, while being super intricate.”

Other noteworthy moments included crinkled silk midi dresses that were overlaid with ruched black organza, as well as a set of gray denim pieces that were finished so precisely that they resembled structured wool on the runway. “We wanted the denim element to be a surprise, but the pieces needed to feel sophisticated and well-made enough to not appear randomly placed,” Zhang said.

The designer, who’s had to be based in China for the past three years and hasn’t been able to attend his own live show, was especially thrilled to be back in London: “It feels fitting to have the show at The Londoner hotel—I can’t help but feel like it’s symbolic of my return to the city.”