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A new wave of female rappers has taken the spotlight, but back in the ‘90s they were rarely given their shine. This year hip-hop turns 50 which has many creative types in a nostalgic mood, including J6 designer James Garland. His new collection is ostensibly a tribute to the women who paved the way, the likes of Lil Kim and Foxy Brown. “They’re both from my neighborhood in Brooklyn. I actually grew up three blocks away from Lil Kim and went to the same school as Foxy, so the references are very close to home for me,” said Garland.

The designer used the famous verse in which Lil Kim boasts about being the “only female in my crew” as a jumping off point for fall and all the imagery that centered her bombastic style. In place of her trademark mink and chinchilla coats, J6 offers dramatic shearlings. The floor-sweeping navy topper that’s lined in baby blue is a knockout—worn with nothing but Garland’s double-heel shearling-lined stilettos by the stunning model Anok Yai for the look book—in a moment when statement coats have been vying for attention.

Since launching last year, the burgeoning brand has made significant inroads with outerwear overall; the J6 logo leather jackets have been seen on rapper ASAP Rocky among others. Indeed it’s Garland’s custom designs for the Harlem rapper that inspired a robust menswear collection for fall. “We’ve done pieces in the past as a companion to the women’s, but this year we plan to produce men’s,” explained Garland. In addition to extra-long acid wash denim barn jackets and slouchy jeans, there is a motocross-style jumpsuit that is detachable at various points on the body. Unzip the layers and the look quickly transforms from a onesie to a traditional moto jacket. Plus, there’s a matching leather baby carrier that’s primed for cool new dads like Rocky.

That convertible approach to dressing comes through in the womenswear too—naturally, there’s a body-skimming version of that Moto jumpsuit that strips down to hot pants. The transformative aspect of the collection is a nod to Garland’s experience as a gay teenager growing up in Clinton Hill and hanging out in the Village. “When you got to West Fourth Street on the subway you’d change your outfit completely,” he said, “I really wanted to have the clothes do that too.” Slinky jersey slip dresses are furnished with rows of tiny buttons along the thigh, midriff, and bust-line to be peeled off at a moment’s notice. And for those who prefer full-coverage, there are even button-on sleeves. Those stealthy three-for-one pieces are bound to be a hit when the collection drops next season.