Coolheadedness is underrated in these emotional times. Much of the discourse in politics and online is impassioned, reactive, and myopic in the sense that there’s not a lot of room for big picture views. Lauren Manoogian bucked that trend with her fall line-up. “The mood I was in was a bit more analytical, whereas the last collection was very emotional,” said the designer. “It’s good to use both sides of your design brain.”
Manoogian’s instinct was to pare back her already minimal offering and refine its “infrastructure.” The designer was especially excited about a double-knit she developed that has a sturdy flatness and can be worked almost like a woven. This was used to create almost a capsule wardrobe within the collection. “Any of those pieces could be in the collection for the next five years,” noted Manoogian.
The first look had a built-in apron (that can be tied forward or back or left to hang), mimicking the skirt over pants layering look that is enjoying a second fame. Sun-drying crinkled fabric was made into a somewhat heavy looking coat, while a twill was used for a boyfriend blazer with a workwear touch. That jacket silhouette can be found in many collections; an over-scale puff suit with what Manoogian called a “soft duvet feeling,” felt more signature.
Another kind of coziness was evoked by the designer’s use of a speckled donegal knit. “It’s almost like a pattern, but without having to actually have any type of pattern,” said Manoogian. “It’s nice that it’s irregular and you don’t really have control over it.” There are a lot of heritage wovens in use across the board this season, and this felt like the knit equivalent. Manoogian’s use of buttons in decorative and functional ways dotted the i in this collection.
