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Marco Rambaldi is a traditional designer. Season after season, his collection starts from a moodboard where the images come from different stories that alway fit together. This season a key reference was Cocoricò, a club in Riccione, which opened in 1989, that was characterized by its “pyramid room.” It was reproduced in an old TV studio on the outskirts of Milan for today’s show. Rambaldi called the club, “an attempt to touch the sky.” His collection was called “Supernova.”

Here there were less colors than usual, though there was still an emphasis on lilac. A jacquard motif was prominent, used well on a snake shaped top. A wide selection of black garments and a series of chocolate leather looks were made from deadstock. Rambaldi likes to include upcycling elements in his creations; this season’s shoes came from the UBE Studio archive. The designer is a 2023 Woolmark Prize finalist; there was some impressive cream colored merino wool on the runway.

Rambaldi works as a hub, collecting collaborations and growing with creatives he meets along his path. Priscilla Anati is a jewelry designer who, like Rambaldi, studied design at IUAV at the University of Venice. After a series of smaller collaborations, she designed a full range of pieces of metal trims for this collection.

Models included friends of the brand; pre-teens; girls and boys of every height, size and background; and moms (one look was worn by the mother of Francesca Ragazzi, head of content of Vogue Italia). For Rambaldi, inclusivity comes naturally.