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If there is one item you would not expect to find in a Marina Moscone collection, it’s booty shorts. The designer reliably offers sharp, basque tailoring in gorgeous heavy wools and crisp shirting, but raw-edged short-shorts are a departure from her artistic and largely covered aesthetic. And yet they feature heavily in the fall 2023 lookbook; no pants to be found. “I felt this freer, risk taking impulse,” Moscone said. “The MM woman, she also dresses in other ways. This sexier, siren-y influence came from that a little bit.”

Alongside the shorts, some of the garments have revealing, on-trend sheer panels, low necklines or abridged hemlines. Black, gray, and white dominate the color palette, but flashes of hibiscus, fuchsia, and bubblegum make their presence known. The bralettes and mini dresses are edgier than Moscone has gone before. “She’s not wearing a shirt and trousers everyday,” Moscone said of her customer. “In this vein and sensibility, she has other ways of dressing.”

Still, the coolest parts of Moscone’s line are the fabrications. Seriously, it’s compelling to hear the designer discuss the tension between the silk georgette that creates the sheer panels with the heavier opaque fabric between, and the process of creating the patterns in-house. The standout piece for fall is an ivory dress covered with threaded embroidery that makes it look like a giant loofah. “Every single thread is embroidered one by one,” Moscone said. You can get teensy shorts anywhere, but good luck finding this.