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Mark Fast was feeling particularly nostalgic for fall, remembering the days when he was in the MA Fashion studios of Central Saint Martins with the late professor Louise Wilson. “I wanted to look back to the skills that I used to create dresses in the past,” he said at a preview. “After all these years, it’s been great to get back to working on my knit machine, because that’s where it all started—I get so much inspiration from all things technical.”

Fast, who describes himself as a knitwear designer, provided a variety of party-appropriate looks. In addition to eye-catching green and pink separates, there were sensuous, backless midi dresses and jumpsuits with frayed details in black, mustard, and cobalt blue. Black knits with spider web accents served as the show’s opening and closing looks, a style Fast first experimented with for his final collection on the CSM MA programme. “There’s something in the air with craft at the moment,” the designer mused. “It makes me want to hone in even more on craftsmanship, but still make fun pieces that are ready to be lived in.”

Elsewhere, Fast ventured further into menswear (seen on both men and women). It felt strong in the mix but could be refined further—more knitwear and tailoring, less sportswear motifs. The confident stride of a male model in one of the knitted jumpsuits felt like a welcome step in the direction of androgynous design.