The family portrait—as risible as it can be fraught—is the subject of “Pictures from Home,” a Broadway play based on a 1992 photo memoir by Larry Sultan, and also one of the concepts that informed Meryll Rogge’s winter-themed fall collection. Called The Holiday Album, it was inspired by sources highbrow and low, Home Alone and the portraiture of Thomas Struth, among them, as well as the Rogge’s personal memories of Y2K—the event and the aesthetic.
Rogge is from Belgium, a snowy climate, and her collection included a group of ski-thermal pieces including a body-con dress and bodysuit with unexpected pockets that complimented the more directly ski and apres-ski looks, like quilted nylon outerwear and tulle-padded pants. The snowiest and most luxe piece was a hand-worked upcycled shearling coat. Only a few will be made.
What was notable about the suiting this season was the trouser silhouette; Rogge opted for cigarette—or in the context of this collection, maybe peppermint stick is a better description—legs. Those grays were overpowered by the more vibrant and extravagant party looks. Known for her hybrid pieces, the designer not only fused tartan to denim jeans, but added a sort of fishtail or kick hem, revealing the lining that flutters as the wearer walks. Plaids were also made into more pajama-like looks. Conifers seemed to have inspired the A-line shapes, while Christmas tree tinsel was translated into crinkled metallics and satins, and many pieces were ornamented with large, dense, sequins.
One of the best bits of the offering was a deconstructed dress in pink satin with mismatched vintage buttons. Roses stood in for poinsettias, too obvious a reference, the designer said, and they added dimensionality and fun to a pair of Rudolf-red briefs and a glorious, hand-embroidered dress with a Poiret-like silhouette. There was even a boxy “present” dress of red Lurex, the most literal take on the theme.
There were a lot of fun surprises here, but the collection lacked the coherence, and the more classic twists, of those that preceded it. (There were day options, but none of them were especially tame.) This kind of made sense in light of the Y2K theme, and because holidays bring disparate family members (chosen or real) together.
This extroverted collection was presented at a bowling alley under the Arc de Triomphe, and the lanes were put to use. Rogge said she received “the best compliment that I’ve ever had,” when someone came up to her and said, “For the first time in my whole career, I made friends at Fashion Week.” The designer’s aim is to create clothes that will make you smile, and be with you for a long time, just like a bestie.
