Nensi Dojaka doesn’t concern herself with thinking up themes and pointing to moodboards backstage to say “this look came from that.” Her subject matter is the female body; her self-set task is to appeal to the psychology of those who enjoy exposing theirs.
It’s as simple, and as complicated, as that. For fall, she was showing plenty of skin in the teeny-weeny strappy minis and paneled see-through abstract bra-topped dresses that made her a post lockdown revenge-dressing youth cult.
A couple of her new ones actually looked like stretch leotards with an attached train-skirt made from the sheerest denier stocking material. It made you worry: could a look like that even survive a taxi ride on the way to a night out?
More constructive for her brand’s growth were her incorporations of ideas for more women, more body shapes and tastes. There were leggings with tulle frilled cuffs and terrific long black tailored coats. In the finale she’d taken on new-to-Nensi non-lingerie types of materials: velvet and a silvery caviar sequin.
The one thing Dojaka said afterward is that she’s sensing a need for “more minimalism” in fashion. Her instincts are right. She’s a designer who can grow with her peer-group; help them to figure out what’s next after their naked dressing nights are done.