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Noir means black, yet today Kei Ninomiya presented in Le Marché des Blancs Manteaux—the market of the white cloaks. Hence, even before the off, we knew there was change afoot. Perspective-wise we could have been minuscule or gigantic. These clothes could have been molecular studies, molto macro in a microscope, deep-space examinations via space telescope, or entirely fictional propositions. As usual, with Ninomiya, they were unlike anything else.

The opening looks of silver-petaled flowers extending beyond more conventionally shaded blooms set the tone. Ninomiya said backstage he had been working toward a “blooming,” and this was evident in the explosively anti-noir purples, blues, and reds that began this collection. For some reason, suddenly freed of his defining bridle, Ninomiya jetted toward a profusion of blossoming ideas.

Foam-threaded tied florals bounced fulsomely around the wearers’ bodies as they bloomed down the runway. Net dresses and metallic-finished polyester strips wound again around the physical forms within them, like beckoning blooms. The molecular explosion at the end only emphasized the clear point of attraction. If only, though, this designer could articulate more: These are clothes with something to say.